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Abu Simbel
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2-2-08
We
have two rest days in Khartoum. Riding through the Sudan has been like
riding forward in time. North of Dongola, all the buses were packed, with
people on top and goods everywhere. South of Dongola, we saw lots of
modern coaches with AC etc. They couldn’t all be coming from Dongola.
Where are they from? More pickups, trucks, a few cars, but still lots of
camels and donkeys the first day out of Dongola.
I
read somewhere that the Tour de France was originally designed to be so
hard only one person could finish each year. This isn’t quite like that,
but it makes me think of it. It isn’t beyond human powers. There are 50
of us, and a few don’t look athletic at all. But it is tough.
Putting
the tent up in the wind was a test, as is trying to write or anything
else.
A
mystery on the second day out from Dongola. Almost all the trucks and
buses were going in the opposite direction from us, away from Khartoum.
Could there be odd and even days in Sudan? But we continue to ride into
the future. Now the road had a median strip marked, and yellow lines on
the sides, and even km markers.
Jane
asked on the phone if I was having a good time. I was puzzled by the
question. Doing a training ride at home in good weather is a good time.
Sitting outside drinking coffee and reading is a good time. Having a good
dinner is a good time. I wouldn’t call this a good time. I wouldn’t
call writing philosophy books a good time either.
But
if she had asked if I am glad I'm doing what I'm doing, the answer is
definitely yes. It's challenging, physically and psychologically. You're
always in doubt about whether you're going to make it; sometimes in doubt
whether you're going to make the next km. but the experiences come so fast
and rich and something that happened a week ago feels like years ago. It
really is an extraordinary experience. This blog may take 6 minutes to
read but it can’t convey what it’s like biking for 6 hours.
I
have to talk about soup, our 3rd meal of the day. Soup is a brilliant
idea. You come off the road needing liquid and salt, and you don’t feel
like drinking water. My tent held up in the sandstorm in spite of the
broken piece of pole. Used the spare sleeve to fix it, and it seems OK.
These are strong winds.
Third
day from Dongola, I noticed that this road has culverts, but I could see
no evidence at all of rain. Is there some Chinese regulation that you
build culverts, or are there periodic rains here? Still riding into the
future. Started to see private cars on the road as well as trucks and
buses. All along the road there were shrubs scattered in the desert, so I
think it's getting wetter, although it doesn’t look it. There must be
ground water. It's pretty flat, but there is basalt scattered everywhere
in the sand. Where are the volcanoes?
The
ride into Khartoum yesterday was a fun and easy day. First an easy 66 km,
mostly tailwind, some crosswind. A slight rise in elevation produced more
vegetation, and even some giant termite hills, making the ride much more
interesting to look at than just endless sand. After the 66 km, and a 2
hour wait for the last riders, we then had a 30 km ride with police escort
through Khartoum traffic. Would have been impossible without the convoy
and escort. That meant 1.5 hours of blaring sirens, stopped traffic, large
crowds watching us. I think of us as the travelling zoo. I'm sharing a
room at the “national camping site" with Gavin, Michael and Bent,
for $12.50 a night, our own toilet and shower, and a good bed (I, of
course, don’t trust the bedding so I'm sleeping in my sleeping bag on
top of the bed). Not worth a penny more.
We
went in the late afternoon to see the whirling dervishes. 10 of us in a
minibus; the driver got lost often. I think circling the site 7 times was
part of the religious experience. But there were very few other white
people there, so it wasn’t a tourist experience, but an exhibition of
religious enthusiasm. Chanting, dancing, and some spontaneous whirling.
Hundreds of people dancing and hundreds more watching. A couple of people
with good English helped explain what was going on.
Today,
February 2, we went in the AM to the souk in Obdurman, the biggest market
in Sudan. Spent time in the market of unethical animal products, lots of
crocodile skins made into everything, including a croc head ashtray
(several examples of this for sale). Then to the Mall with a big
supermarket, and a good Turkish restaurant
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2-1-08
I
am surprised to see that Khartoum is a city that looks very new and
prosperous. We are camping 10 miles from the city so we have to take cabs
or minibuses. The campground has rooms. Four of us are sharing for $12.50
each. That’s about what it’s worth, but there is hot water. Tonight we
are going to see the whirling dervishes and I’m hoping for some good
food.
The
decision was made today that we will be bypassing Kenya. They are trying
to book a charter flight from the bottom of Ethiopia to the airport near
Kilimanjaro. Imagine all those bikes on one plane. Otherwise, we will bike
the planned route to the end of Ethiopia, take buses back to Addis Ababa
and fly from there.
Sometimes
small favors can make your day. I was cycling by myself today, took a
necessary break, thought I was all alone in the desert. When I started off
again, I realized I had left my gloves. I turned around to get them and
saw a man running along the road toward me with my gloves.
(Photos of Khartoum)
 
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